A hearty chowder is as delicious on a warm summer afternoon paired with a glass of rosé as it is on a chilly fall night served with a pint of beer. Tuck in with a slice of crusty bread for the ultimate seafood-lover’s meal. If you’d like to leave out the bacon, cook the onion and celery in 2 tablespoons of canola oil instead—keep in mind that the overall flavor will be slightly less smoky and rich but still wonderfully delicious.